Buttonhole sewing machine



Feb. 28, 1939. s w. AVIS BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 28, 1957 8Sheets-Sheet l J .wN NNN NNN jn venzor fi SL4 MCI;

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4 v BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE a Shets-Sheet 2 I In uenior:

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Filed July 28, 1937 Feb. 28, 1939. s.'w. AVIS 2,149,110

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 28, 1,957 8 Sheets-Sheet 3Inveniar: 3nd 2* 0 @0 a iiorn f Feb. 28, 1939. 5 w, v s I 2,149,110

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 28, 1937 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 fliianwyzzzb 5.. W. AVI$ BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jul I, 4 d/A9 Feb. 28,1939.

Feb. 28, .1939. s. w. AVIS BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Fil d J l 28 1937 8Sheets-Sheet 6 Feb. 28,1939. s. w. AVIS BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE FiledJuly 28, 1937 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 orn eys'.

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Patented Feb. 28, 1939 UNITEDLSTATES PATENT OFFICE BUTTONHOLE SEWINGMACHINE Application July 28, 1937, Serial No. 156,136

59 Claims.

This invention relates to button hole sewing machines, and moreparticularly, though not exclusively, to a machine of the eye and flybar a type, that is to say, a. machine for sewing button holes having aneye at one end and a socalled fly bar at the other end.

It is the primary aim and object of the present invention to provide amachine of the above type which, by a minimum number of simpleadjustments and without interchanging parts, adapts itself, withinlimits imposed by the design of the machine, to the sewing of buttonholes of any desired type and size, that is to say, button holes of anydesired length, with or without eyes and with or without fly bars, theeyes, when formed, being of independently variable length and width, thebars, when formed, being likewise of independently variable length andwidth, the variability of the dimensions 01 the eyes being furthermoreindependent of the variability of the dimensions of the bars and viceversa, and both to provide a machine that will automatically perform alloperations necessary to sew any selected type of button hole of adesired size, for

which the machine has been adjusted. without further attention on thepart of an operator 0. after the machine is once started.

It is another object of the present invention to embody in the machine amechanism which, by a simple adjustment and without interchanging parts,causes all stitches, diverging and par- I allel, of a buttonhole to besubstantially uniformly spaced regardless of the length or-width of theeye of the buttonhole.

I Further objects and advantages of the present invention will beapparent from the following descriptlon of an illustrative and preferredembodiment thereof shown in the accompanying drawings, this, however,having been chosen for purposes of exemplification only, as it will beobvious tov those skilled in the art that said invention, as defined bythe claims hereunto appended, may be otherwise embodied withoutdeparture from its spirit and scope.

In said drawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a machine embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation partly in section, of the machine;

Fig. 3 is a bottom view of the machine.

Figs. 4 to 9, inclusive, illustrate examples of various types of buttonholes which the machine is capable of sewing.

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic illustration of cer-' tain cooperatingelements of the machine, showing more particularly the extent to whichthese 5 elements can be adjusted for sewing button holes of varioustypes and sizes.

Fig. 10a illustrates diagrammatically the extent to which certaindimensions of a button hole may be varied upon adjustment of the coopera1o ing elements in Fig. 10. t I

Fig. 11 is an enlarged fragmentary view of part of the machine asillustrated in Fig. 1, and

showing more particularly the disposition of a guide block which is partof a lateral feed mechi5 anism for the sewing instrumentallties of themachine.

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary side elevation of that part of the machinewhich is illustrated in Fig. 11. a

Figs. 13 and 14 are sections taken on the lines 20 13-43 and l4ll,respectively, of Fig. 12.

Figs. 15 and 16 are enlarged, fragmentary views of certain elements ofthe lateral feed mechanism in different positions of cooperation.

Fig. 17 is an exploded perspective view of the guide block shown in Fig.12.

Fig. 18 is an enlarged fragmentary section, taken substantially on theline llll of Fig. 2.

Fig. 18a is a fragmentarysection, showing certain cooperating elementsof the lateral feed mechanism in Fig. 18 in a. different cooperativerelation to each other.

Fig. 19 is an elevation, partly .in 'sectlon, of a part of the lateralfeed mechanism as viewed in the direction of arrow IS in Fig. '18.

Fig. 20 is a plan view of certain cooperating elements of the lateralfeed mechanism as viewed in the direction of arrow 20 in Fig. 219..

Fig. 21 is a fragmentary side elevation 01 the 0 cooperating elementsshown in Fig. 20.

Fig. 22 is a section taken on the line 22--22 at Fig. 19.

Fig. 23 illustrates certain cooperating elements of the lateral feedmechanism as viewed in the 45 direction of arrow 23 in Fig. 18.

Fig. 24 is a bottom view of certain cooperating structure of,themachine, and is viewed in the direction Jr arrow 24 in Fig. 2.

Fig. 25 is a view similar to Fig. .24 showing the 50 same structure in adifferent cooperative relation, however.

Fig. 26 is an enlarged, fragmentary section, taken substantially on theline 26-26 or Fig. 24.

Referring to the drawings, and more particuc5 larly to Figs. 4 to 9inclusive, there are shown, by way of example, a few of the differenttypes and sizes of button holes which a machine embodying the presentinvention, is capable of sewing. Each button hole includes the usualslit s which, in some instances, terminates in an enlarged opening thatconstitutes an eye e, the hole being finished and surrounded by theusual button hole stitches.

As shown in Fig. 4, the button hole stitching includes two parallellines of stitching a, a along the straight edges of the slit s, saidlines of stitch- I .ing being connected at one end by offset stitches c,c with two superimposed lines of stitching b, b

the latter constituting a fly bar, the median line of which is inalinement with the slit s. The stitches a, a are also connected at theopposite end by offset stitches d, d with radially disposed stitches Iwhich, together with the stitches d, d,

surround the circular eye e.

Fig. illustrates a button hole, the slit s of which is longer and theeye opening'e of which is larger than in Fig. 4. Consequently, the linesof stitching a, a. are accordingly longer, and the stitches d, d areoffset to a greater extent, and extend longitudinally of the slit s fora. greater distance, than the corresponding stitches in Fig.

4. The stitches b, b and c, c are omitted from this button hole. Theresult is a relatively long button hole with a relatively large circulareye, but no bar.

In the button hole shown in Fig. 6, the opening e and the offsetstitches d, d are omitted, and the stitches a, a are directly connectedby the radially disposed stitches I, thus constituting a button holewhich is eyeless. The stitches c, care less offset than thecorresponding stitches in Fig. 4, with the result that the stitches b, bare Snot-completely superimposed but are merely over- [-"lapped to forma broader fly bar which is also somewhat shorter than that shown in Fig.4.

In the buttonhole shown in Fig. '7, the stitches b, b and c, c as wellas the stitches d, d are omitted, resulting in a button hole havingneither an eye nor a fly bar.

The button hole shown in Fig. 8 has a fly bar and an eye, the latterbeing oblong in shape and relatively narrow.

The button hole shown in Fig. 9 has no fly bar but an eye which isoblong in shape and relatively broad.

The invention is herein shown as embodied in a machine of the generaltype disclosed in the Kiewicz patents, No. 1,696,893, issued December25, 1928, and No. 1,726,153, issued August 27, 1929, and in certainother prior patents referred to therein.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, such a machine comprises a stationary bed 40which is provided with suitable work clamps 4|, and a stitching head 42which carries the stitch forming device and is movably supported on thebed to position the stitches in work, held by the work clamps, for theformation of a stitched button hole. The stitch forming device comprisesa laterally jogging needle 43 and cooperating loopers (not shown), aswell as actuating mechanism therefor including a stitching controlmechanism, generally indicated at 44 in Fig. 2, for controlling thestart and finish of the stitching operation. The stitching head 42 ismoved longitudinally over the bed 40 by a main cam 45 which is carriedby said head and rotated by a power driver indicated at 46. (Fig. 2),said cam having in one face a cam groove 41 in which rides anantifriction roller 48, carried by a stud 49 which is secured to the bed40.

During one complete operation of a machine of this .type, the stitchinghead 42 reciprocates once longitudinally of the button hole through adistance A (Fig. a) which is invariable and determined by the shape ofthe cam groove 47 in the main cam 45. More particularly, the stitchinghead moves first rearwardly in the direction of arrow X (Fig. 4) from afixed starting point .8 (Fig. 10a) to a fixed point of reversal R andreturns in the direction of arrow Y (Fig. 4) to the starting point Swhere the machine is stopped by a main stop mechanism (not shown). Thelocation of the stitching at the extreme end of the eye e of a buttonhole is flxed and determined by the point of reversal of thereciprocatory movement of the stitching head, while the location of theend of the stitching at the bar em; b, and consequently the over-alllength of the entire stitching, is determined by coincident points inthe rearward and return movements of the stitching head at which theoperation of the stitch forming device is started and stopped, re-

spectively. To this, end, the stitching control mechanism 44 iscontrolled by a cam bar 50 (Figs. 1 and 2) which is longitudinallyadjustably attached, as hereinafter described, to a callbrated indexplate 5| on the bed 40, whereby the position of said cam barlongitudinally of the bed may be varied so as to change the period ofcooperation of said cam bar with the stltching control mechanism 44. Theneedle 43 and cooperating loopers are carried by turrets' 53 and 54,respectively, which are carried by the head 42 and rotated through asemi-revolution in one direction at the eye end of the button hole toposition the outwardly diverging stitches f (Figs. 4 to 9) as well as tocondition the stitch forming device for placing the stitches a, c and dat the other side of the button hole slit 3, and

movement of the stitching head to starting position and immediatelybefore the machine stops. Except as hereinafter pointed out, or as theyenter into combination with parts hereinafter described, the parts sofar referred to constitute no portion of the present invention and maybe of any usual construction and arrangement. Being fully described inthe mentioned prior patents, they require no further description here.

Machines of this type, as disclosed in the above mentioned Kiewiczpatents, are also provided with a lateral feed mechanism whereby thelongitudinal reciprocation of the stitching head may be compounded withlateral movements to obtain a resulting movement of the needle andcooperating loopers of the stitch'forming device around a buttonholewhich may include an eye of a fly bar or both, according torequirements, as will be more fully explained herein. More particularly,the lateral motions of the stitching head are slight rocking motionsabout the axis of a stud 55 (Fig. 2) which is carried by an arm 56, faston a stud 51 which is suitably secured to a cam casing 6|, for instanceby the disclosed set screw 58. The stud 55 is journalled in a slide 59which is guided for movement longitudinally of the bed in guideways 60,provided by said bed. The cam casing 6| forms a part of the stitchinghead 42, wherefore both are movable in unison. The stud 55 is,therefore, a pivot for the stitching head 42 which is floatinglongitudinally of the bed to permit the reciprocation of said headrelative to the bed. The floatability of the pivot 55 secures the addedadvantage of giving way to any longitudinal motions of the head whichare not solely caused by the rotation of the main cam 45, but by aslight rocking motion of said rotating cam relative to the stationaryfollower 48 during the rocking of the head by the lateral feedmechanism. Experience has taught, however, that such superimposedlongitudinal motions of thehead 42 position the offset stitches c, c(Figs. 4, 6 and 8) mechanism of this general character. in shown, thismechanism is as follows:

must be indefinitely small as they are not noticeable and do not changethe course of the needle and cooperating loopers of the stitch formingde- I in the formation of a fly bar, and to position the ofiset stitchesd, d (Figs. 4, 5, 8 and 9) and, in combination with the rotation of theturrets 53 and 54, also the outwardly diverging stitches f in theformation of an eye. The present inven-' tion relates to a novel andimprovedlateral feed As here- Referring now more particularly to Figs.2, '3

and 24 to 26 inclusive, the main cam 4.": has in its lower face acam'groove 62 with which cooperates an anti-friction roller 63 (Fig. 26)on a stud 64 which is carried by a lever 65, pivotally mounted at 66 tothe outside of the cam casing 6|; This cam casing is provided with anoblong slot6l through which the stud 64 projects into the inside of saidcasing so that the roller 63 may cooperate with the cam groove 62. Anextension 68 of the lever 65 is provided with an elongated slot 99within which a stud I is adjustably mounted by means of a nut 1|,drawing a collar 12 of said stud into firm engagement with saidextension 68. The stud I0 carries an anti-friction roller 13 which isreceived in an elongated slot I4 of an arm I of the driving element 19of a novel one-' tooth gearing which is similar in its operation to aGeneva gearing. This-driving element 19 is pivotally mounted at 11 onthe outside of the casing GI, and is provided with a single tooth 18,

adapted to cooperate or mesh with the illustrated cavity I9 of thedriven element 80 of said gearing. Both gear elements 18- and 80 arealso provided with locking surfaces 16a, 16b and 80a,

190b, respectively, two cooperating surfaces of which are, in typicalGeneva-gear fashion, in

. interlocking engagement with each other when cavity 19 of the drivenelement may be considered the tooth "is not cooperating with the cavityI9. 65

Fig. 25 shows the cooperating surfaces 16b, and

90b of the elements liand 90, respectively. in'

interlocking engagementwith each other. The

the cavity between two successive teeth of a gear, the opposite flanksof which are indicated at 19c and 19b (Fig. 25). The driven element 80is pivotally mounted at 8| to a bracket 92 which is in turn mountedinany suitable manner on an extension, of'the gear casing 6| (see alsoFig. 18). Slidable longitudinally in guideways 04, provided by thebracket '02, is a rock which is connected with the driven element 80 bya link other locking surfaces 16a and 80a are engaged and the tooth 18engages the other flank 19a of the recess 19, and vice versa. It can nowbe understood that any greater rocking motion of the driving element 16,as caused by any adjustment of the stud I0 other than that shown in Fig.24, does not impart a greater rocking motion to the driven element 90but merely results in a greater or lesser amount of angular lost motionof the driving element 16 relative to the driven element 80 which isrocked through an invariable angular distance. For reasons which will beexplained later, the pivot supports 66, 11 and BI of the lever 65 andthe gear elements 16 and 80, respectively, are preferably in linearalinement with each other as shown by the dot and dash line 91 in Fig.3. The maximum rocking motion of the driving element 16 is obtaine whenthe stud I0 is adjusted in the position shown in Fig. 3. Obviously, inany adjusted position of the stud other than that shown in Fig. 24, thedriving element 16 has an angular lost motion relative to the drivenelement 90. Since the time period for the rocking motion ofsaid drivingelement through any angular distance is .rocking of the driven element90 through its invariable angular distance takes place at greater orlesser speed. i. e., during a longer or shorter time period, dependingon the adjustment of stud 10. v v

Referring now more particularly to Figs. 18 to 23 inclusive, the rack 85is in constant mesh with gear teeth 90 of a vertical shaft 9| which isjournalled and axially slidable in a bearing 92, provided by the earliermentioned bracket 02. Shaft 9| is provided at the top with a round head99,

' having a diametrically extending guide groove 94 for the base 95 of astud 99. A recessed plate 9'! is secured to the head 92 and serves toretain the base 95 of the stud 99 in the guide groove 94. Z

The head a: with its retainer plate 91 is rotatably housed in a casing99 which'has a cover 99 suitablysecured-thereto. Carried by the studbase 95 is a pin I00 which projects into an eccentric groove l0! in therecessed bottom I02 of the casing 09 (see particularly Fig-20). It cannow be readily understood that the stud 99 can be shifted longitudinallyof the guide groove 94 upon rotation of the casing 99 and cover plate 99relative to the head 93 and retainer'plate 91 due to the cooperation ofthe pin I00 with the eccentric slot 0l.- The eccentricity of the slot INis such that the stud 96 may be shifted from axial alinement withtheshaft 9| into the most remote position therefrom which is illustrated inFigs. 19 and 20.

The stud base 95 may be locked in adjusted posifirm engagement withthecasing 98, thus locking the stud 98 in any adjusted position to theshaft 9i. As earlier explained, the angular distance through which thegeneva driven element 80 rocks remains constant irrespective of thevariable range of angular travel of the driving element 18. Moreparticularly, the rocking motion of the driven element is of suchamplitude that the rack 85 is moved over a distance in which it willrotate the shaft 9| through one complete revolution. Consequently, ifthe stud 98 is disposed coaxially of the shaft 9I, the former will berotated through one complete revolution about its own axis. However, ifthe stud 98 is so ad- Justed that its axis is out of alinement with theaxis of the shaft 9|, as for instance in Fig. 19, the stud will rotatebodilyaround the axis of the shaft 9|. Shaft 9I is provided at its lowerend with a thread I04 which cooperates with the internal thread of anelement I05, having a plurality of concentric slots I06 through whichextend holding screws I08, threaded into the bracket 82. The element I05serves as a nonrotatable nut for the threaded end I04 of the shaft 9|,so that said shaft is given an axial motion upon rotation of the same bythe rack 85, as can be readily understood. The concentric slots I06 ofthe nut element I05 permit a fine adjustment of the longitudinaldisposition of the shaft 9| and stud 98 by merely loosening the screwsI08 and turning said nut I05 relative to the shaft 9I. The shaft 9| andthe elements carried thereby as well as the described drive for saidshaft form one part of the lateral feed mechanism, said part beingexclusively carried by the stitching head 42. The purpose for impartingto the shaft M a rotary motion as well as e. simultaneous axial motionwill be fully explained in the following description of a guide blockI09 which forms another part of the lateral feed mechanism, said partbeing carried by the bed 40, however.

Referring now more particularly to Figs. 11 to 18,, inclusive, the guideblock I09 comprises in the present instance an assembly of plate membersIIO, IIOa. III, IIIa, IIIb, II2, H26, H21), II2c and H3 (Fig. 17). Theplates IIO to H2, inclusive, are properly correlated and secured to themounting plate II3 by suitable dowel pins and screws shown in Fig. 1'1.More particularly the plate members H and IIOa underlie the platemembers III, Ia and ID, and the latter underlie the plate members II2, II2a, H21) and 20. The plate members H20, H21) and H20 alsounderlie platemember II2 which in turn underlies the mounting plate H3. The platemembers H0, IIOa, III, Illa, IIlb, II2a, H21) and I I20 are so disposedas to form linear groove II4, the bottom of which is the surface II ofplate member II2. The mounting plate H3 is guided for movement parallelto the guideways 60 of the bed 40 (see Fig. 2) in guideways II6,provided by said bed at the bottom side thereof (Fig. 18). The guideblock assembly I09 is retained in adjusted position in the guideways IIBby a hand screw II1 which extends through an elongated slot II8 of thebed and through a hole I20 of the earlier mentioned index plate 5I, thusconnecting said index plate with the guide block I09 for combinedmovement. The index plate 5| is guided for movement parallel to theguideways II8 by a machined shoulder I2I and surface I22, and isprovided with an elongated slot I24, receiving a screw I23 which isthreaded into the earlier mentioned cam bar-'50, thereby securing thelatter to the index plate In suitably adjusted position relativethereto.

The plate member I I I is provided with a groove apart as to form agroove I21 which is also disposed at an inclination to said lineargroove II4 (see Figs. 14 and 1'1). The plate members H21) and I I2c arealso spaced apart to form a groove I28 which is disposed transversely tothe groove I21 and inclined to the linear groove 1 I4, while platemember II2a cooperates with a raised portion M2 to form a groove I25which is disposed transversely to the groove I28 of plate member III andat an opposite inclination to the linear groove "II4. Slidable in thegrooves I25 to I28, inclusive, are elements I32 to I35, respectively,the elements I32 and I35 being cam elements proper and the elements I33and I34 cooperating with the cam elements I35 and I32, respectively, todefine laterally adjustable upper and lower cam grooves H4 and H4"(Figs. 18 and I80) which merge gradually into the linear groove II4 aswill be more fully described later. The assembly of individual platemembers to form the guide block I09 obviously facilitates theconstruction of the iatter'inasmuch as the guide grooves I25 to I28,inclusive, and a guide groove I48 to be described later, are formed bysimply machining into surfaces of certain plate members or by spacingother plate members, while the contiguous plate members act to retainthe elements I82 to I35, inclusive, in their respective gu de grooves.Journalled in the plate members H0, 041 and H3 are two identical pinionsI38 and I38, disposed in recesses I40 and HI, respectively, of the guideblock I39 and projecting beyond the sides I42 and I43 of said guideblock a d stance which is substantially equal to the depth of a tooth.The pinions I38 and I39 (Fig. 14) are in constant mesh with rack teethI44, I45, I48 and I41, formed on the edges of the elements I32 to I35,respectively. More particularly, pinion I" is in permanent mesh with therack teeth I44 and I45 of the elements I32 and I33, respectively, whilepinion I39 is in permanent mesh with the rack teeth I48 and I41 of theelements I34 and I35, respectively. The plate member H2 is provided inits top surface with another groove I48 (Figs. 13 and 17) in which isguided a slide I50, having rack teeth I5I and I52 in its opposite edges.The rack teeth I5I are in constant mesh with the pinion I38, while therack teeth I52 Pie in constant mesh with the pinion I39. Slidable on themachined side face I42 of the guide block I09 is another rack I53 whichis in constant mesh with the pinion I38. This rack I53 is provided witha rectangular groove I54 (Figs. 12 and 13), receiving the eccentric I55of a rotary handle I58 which is journalled on the shank I51 of a screwI58, secured to the guide block I09. The rack I53 is guided for movementat right angles to the axis of the pinion I38 by means of screws I80which extend through elongated slots I59 in said rack and are secured tothe guide block I09. It can now be understood that, upon loosening thescrews I80, the handle I56 may be rotated, whereby its eccentric I55forces the rack I53 in either direction, depending on the direction ofrotation of the handle I58. Such movement of the rack I53 causesrotation of the pinion I38 and, through Intermediation of rack I50,simultaneous rotation of the adjusted position of said elements.

of the pinions I38 and I39 are imparted to the respective elements I32to I 35, inclusive. Simultaneous rotation through equi-angular distancesbut in opposite directions, of the pinions I38, I39 results insimultaneous movements of equal amplitude of the cam elements I32 andI35 either toward the center of the linear groove I I4 or awaytherefrom, and of the cooperating elements I33 and I34 in the samedirections as their respective cam elements I35 and I32. All elementsI32. to I35, inclusive, have been so initially positioned in theirrespective guide grooves in the guide block that the median line I6I ofthe groove II4 (Fig. 14) extends centrally between the front faces I32a,I34a, and I33a, I35a of the elements I32, I34, I33 and I35,respectively, and the horizontal distances between the front faces ofboth pairs of cooperating elements I32, I34 and I33, I35 as viewed inFig. 17, are equal. It can now be understood that the horizontaldistance between the front faces of each pair of cooperating elementsI32, I34 or I33, I35 remains the same, irrespective This distance issubstantially equal to the spacing of two parallel flats I 62 and I63,machined on opposite sides of the top portion of the stud 96 at equaldistances from the axis thereof. The width of the straight groove I I4is equal to the diameter of the cylindrical portion of the stud 96,which cylindrical portion projects into said groove at the most to thelevel of the top surfaces of the lowermost plates III! and Ba, as viewedin Fig. 17, while the flattened top of said stud projects deeper intothe groove H4 in order to be acted upon by the laterally adjustable camgrooves I I4 and II4"."- In order to gu de the flattened top of the stud9-6 from the linear groove II4 laterally into engagement with the frontface of either cam element I32 or I35 and then return the same to saidlinear groove, all during reciprocation of the stitching head,cooperating surfaces, bevelled with respect to the linear groove II4,are provided by the stud 96, the guide block I99 and the cam elementsI32 and I35, the bevelled surfaces of said guide block and said camelements forming connecting guide grooves between the linear groove H4and the laterally adjustable grooves II4'. and'II4", respectively..Consider- Ing first the lateral displacement of the stud 96 from thelinear groove II4 during the initial or rearward movement of thestitching head 42, it is the cam element I32 which is then in operativealinement with the stud 96 and causes the lateral displacement of saidstud, and, consequently, of the stitching head for the sewing of thestitches b in the formation of a fly bar (Figs. 4, 6 and 8). During theinitial or rearward movement'of the stitching head, the stud 96 is inthe elevation shown in Fig. 18. The stud 96 is provided with a .notchI64 to provide clearance for the then inoperative cam element I35. Atthe start of the rearward movement of the stitching head 42, the

stud 96 is located in the front part II 4a of the linear groove I I 4,i. e., to the left of the laterally adjustable guide grooves II 4 and 4"as viewed in Fig. 14. While the stitching head 42 moves rearwardly, abevelled surface I65 of the stud 96 cooperates witha bevelled surfaceI61 of the cam element I32 and gradually forces the stud from thedot-and-dash position 960 in Fig. 15 into a position in which the flatI63 of the stud rides on the front face I32a of said cam'element I32(see full line position of stud 96 in Fig. 15).

Thefront face I34a of the cooperating element I34 engages the adjacentflat I62 of the stud 96, I

, hole.

control mechanism 44, and the stitching b of a fly bar (Figs. 4, 6 and8) is positioned at one end of a button hole to be sewed. The stitchingof b continues until the surfaces I32a and I63 of the element I32 andthe stud 96, respectively, reach the end of their engagement, whenanother bevelled surface I66 of the stud is forced to ride down the sideI 69 of the cam element I32 by the cooperating, bevelled surfaces I69and IIIJ of the stud 96 and the groove I I4, respectively, thusreturning the stud into the linear groove II4 as illustrated at 961) inFig. 15. The stitching head, compelled to follow the stud, positionsduring this lateral return movement the offset stitches c which connectthe fly bar stitching b with the line a of stitching along one side ofthe button Continued rearward movement of the stitching head results inthe stitching of a (Fig.

4) along the first side of the button hole, as the stud 96 then travelsin the rear portion II4b of the linear groove I I 4. In order that thecylindrical part of the stud 96 in the groove II4, being eitherinterrupted or undercutfor a substantial length at both sides of thecooperating elements I32 to I35, inclusive (see also Fig. 1'7) For abetter understanding of the cooperation ofthe stud 96 with the elementsI33, I35 during the return movement of the stitching head, it may bestated in advance that the stud-carrying shaft 9| is rotated through onecomplete revolution at the point of reversal R of the reciprocating head(Fig.

Ila). end of the shaft 9| is substantially equal to the thickness of thecam element I32 (Fig. 18), and the direction ofrotation of the shaft Nat the point of reversal-R is such that the shaft and stud, due to thecooperation between the shaft thread I64 and the nut I95, are loweredinto the position of the stud shown in Fig. I8a in which the latter isin operative alinement with the cooper- The pitch of the thread I04 onthe lower.

ating elements I33 and I35 and clears the other cam element I32. Duringthe return movement 0 with the bevelled surface I65 of the stud whilethe lattEr travels along the bevelled surface I12 of the cam elementI35. This gradual lateral movement of the stud, and consequently of thestitching head, results in the positioning of the offset stitches c(Figs. 4, 6 and 8) which connect the finished line of stitching a withthe stitches b' to be sewed. The front face I33a of element I33cooperates with the front face I35a of. element I35 to form thelaterally adjustable guide groove II4". While the stud 96 rides in thelaterally offset guide groove I I4" the fly bar stitches b arepositioned until the stitching control mechanism stops the operation ofthe stitch forming device at the end of the fly bar, 1. e., while the 1IIla of the groove IIl have relinquished their 1' stud 96 still rides insaid guide groove I ll". During continued return movement of thestitching head to its starting point S, the stud continues to move tothe left as viewed in Fig. 16, and is returned into the forward portionI Ila of the linear groove IIl upon cooperation of the cylindrical partof the stud with a bevelled shoulder I13, the latter being part of oneof the earlier mentioned undercuts in the sidewalls of said lineargroove IIl. Groove I ll is also provided with a narrow portion I'Il,formed by opposite wall portions I15 which are equally spaced from themedian line I6I of said groove Ill and apart from each other a distancesubstantially equal to the distance between the opposite flats I62 andI63 of the stud 96. The earlier mentioned bevelled surfaces I10 and IlOaof the groove IIl merge into this narrow groove portion, and saidbevelled surfaces "0, "(la as well as the narrow groove portion I"extend in the linear groove IIl down to the level of the top faces ofthe plates Ill, IIila only as viewed in Fig. 12, in order to be out ofthe path of movement of the cylindrical portion of thestud' 96. Thenarrow groove portion IIl assumes-guid- 'ju lng control over the stud 96longitudin'allyof the groove I when the bevelled surfaces I19 andguiding control over the stud during movement 01' the latter in therearward portion lb of I groove I for a short distance toward and away-3v from the cooperating elements I32 to I35, inelusive. The narrowgroove portion I", thus bridges a small gap in the linear groove inwhich neither the cooperating elements I32 to I35, inclusive, nor saidlinear groove assumes guiding control over the stud 96. This lack ofguidance of the stud 96 over a short distance by the'linear groove I llis due to the fact that the earlier men tioned undercuts extend over asubstantial length in order to provide clearance for the cylindricalportion of the stud 96 in any laterally displaced position as determinedby the adjustment of the tinuations of the narrow groove portion Ill,thus avoiding any lateral motion of the stud 96, as the groove IIl isthen in fact linear throughout its length. In that case, no fly bar willbe formed as can be readily understood. Since thebevelled surfaces I63and I12 01' the cam elements I32 and I35, respectively, are side facesthereof, it stands to reason that any adjustment of these cam elements,i. e., movement of the same in directions parallel to their side faces,does not vary the distance between said faces and their respectivecooperating bevels I19 and I'IIIa of the groove IIl.

- It can now be understood that thestud 96 is positively guidedthroughout the sewing of a button hole of any desired fly-bar width, i.e., from some point in the laterally adjustable guide groove IIl' intoand through part of the rear portion IIla of groove IIl in one directionto the poinx of reversal R and again through said rear portion lb ofgroove I in the opposite direction to some point in the other laterallyadjustable guide groove IIl'f. While there is a short dis"- tancebetween the earlier mentioned undercut shoulder I'I3 (Fig. 16) in thefront portion Illa of groove II 4 and the cooperating elements I32 toI35, inclusive, through which the, stud is only loosely guided, this hasno effect whatever on the proper operation of the machine, as nooperation is performed by the machine which depends on accurate guidanceof the stud 96 through this distance.

As mentioned before, the stud carrying shaft 9| is rotated through onecomplete revolution adjacent the fixed'point of reversal R (Fig. 10a) ofthe stitching head by earlier described mechanism, comprising main caml5, lever 65, the one-tooth gearing I6 and 8D, link 66 and rack 85. Moreparticularly, and for reasons which will appear later, the rotation ofthe shaft II preferably takes place at substantially uniform angularspeed, and said shaft completes onehalf of its revolution at the timethe stitching head reverses its direction of movement. The concurrenceof the completion of one-half revolution of .shaft 9| and the reversalof the direction of movement of the stitching head l2 is imperative forreasons which will appear later, and is accomplished by propercoordination of the cam grooves ll, 62 of the main cam l and of thecooperating elements 65, I6 and 86 which transmit the motion by the camgroove 62 to the shaft-driving rack 85. More particularly. thecoordination of the last mentioned structure is such that the follower63 of lever 65 is exactly halfway of its throw by the active portion 62aof the cam groove 62 (Fig. 3) and the tooth ll of the driving element I6has moved the driven element 80 through one half of its fixed range ofmovement, when the stationary follower ll on the bed l0 cooperates withthe outermost portion 41a of the cam groove l'l (Fig. 1), at which timethe stitching head reverses. its direction of travel from rearward toreturn movement. In view of the adjustability of stud ID on the lever65, it is further imperative that the longitudinal axes of the elongatedslots '69, 14 of the elements 65 and I6, respectively, coincide (Fig. 3)when the follower 63 of element 65 is exactly halfway of its throw bythe active portion 62a of the cam groove 62. With the above structurecoordinated as described, the shaft 9i starts and ceases to rotate atpoints coincident in the rearward and return travel of the stitchinghead, and said shaft has concluded one-half of its revolution when thestitching head reverses its direction of travel at the eye end of thebutton hole. If the stud 96 is adjusted in coaxial alinement with theshaft 9 I, the former will merely rotate about its own axis and have nobodily movement, with the result that no lateral displacement of thestitching head takes place at the eye end, and no eye is formed.However, if the stud 96 is adjusted in any other position relative tothe shaft 9I, the stud will have an eccentric motion and, by cooperationwith the relatively stationary rear portion IIlb' of groove Ill, imparta rocking motion to the longitudinally travelling stitching head. Thelongitudinal and lateral component motions of the stitching head resultin a motion of the needle 43 and cooperating loopers of the stitchforming device which is circumscriptive of an eye. Inasmuch as thebeginning and end of the revolution of shaft 9| takes place at pointscoincident in the rearward and return travel of the stitching head, andsince said shaft 9| has concluded one-half revolution when the stitchinghead reverses its direction of travel, an eye is formed which issymmetrical to the longitudinal axis of the button hole. Obviously, theguide groove 94 of the shaft 9I must be initially positioned so as toextend parallel to the linear groove II4 when said shaft is in itsnormal position of rest, as otherwise any adjustment of the stud 96relative to the shaft 9| would result in an eye which is distorted andnot symmetrical to the longitudinal axis of the button hole.

By adjusting the stud 96 relative to the shaft 9| to vary theeccentricity of the former, the amount of lateral motion of thestitching head and, hence, the width of an eye, is varied. By varyingthe time period of the rocking motion of the driven element 80 of thesingle tooth Geneva gearing by adjusting the stud I0 on lever 65, theeccentric stud 96 in the rear portion II) of the linear groove II4completes its rotary motion during a longer or shorter period ofthe\'longitudinal travel of the stitching head, thereby varying thelength of the eye. By undertaking both adjustments, the width as well asthe length of the eye are varied. Thus, eyes of practically all of thecommercially "required shapes and sizes may be obtained by suitablecombinations of both adjustments (see example inFigs. 4 to 9). I

Referring now more particularly to Figs. 2 and 3, the present machinehas also provisions for turning the stitch forming device during thesewing around the eye end of a button hole in order to obtain theradiating or outwardly diverging stitches 1 (Figs. 4, 5, 8 and 9), aswell as to condition the stitch forming device for the sewing of thestitches d, a, c and 1) during the return movement of the stitching head42 from the fixed point R to the fixed point S (Fig. 10a). The main cam45 has in its lower face another cam groove I80 in which rides ananti-friction roller vided with an elongated slot I84. The roller m oflever I82 projects through an elongated slot I85 of the cam casing 6|into cooperative relation with the cam groove I80. Adjustably mounted Inthe elongated slot I84 of lever I82 is a stud I88, carrying ananti-friction roller (not shown) which rides in an elongated slot I81(Fig. 24) of the driving element I88 of a single tooth Geneva gearing,the driven element I89 of which is mounted in any suitable manner on anupright shaft I90. The driving element I88 is pivotally mounted at I9Ion the cam casing 6| and is provided with a tooth I92 and lockingsurfaces I88a and I88b, while the driven element I89 is provided with atooth-cavity I93 and locking surfaces I89a and I89b.' The operation ofthe present .The invariable angular motion, imparted to the drivenelement I89 by the driving element I88 irrespective of the adjustment ofthe connecting stud I 86 between element I88 and lever I82, causesrevolution of the turrets. Moreover, the coordination between the camgrooves N0 and 41 and between the elements I 82, I88 and l89 is suchthat the turrets will start and end their semirevolution at pointscoincident in the rearward 5 and return travel of the stitching head 42,and complete one-half of their semi-revolution when the stitching headreverses its direction of movement. To accomplish this, the tooth I92 ofthe driving element I88 must have moved the driven l0 element I89through one-half of its fixed range of movement when the follower I8I oflever I82 is exactly half-way of its throw by the active portion I80a ofthe cam groove I80. In view of the adjustability of the connecting studI86 on the 16 lever I82, it is further imperative that the longitudinalaxes of the slots I84, I81 of the lever I82 and the driving element I88, respectively, coincide (Fig. 3) when the follower I8I of lever I82is exactly half-way of its throw by the active por- 20 tion l80a of thecam groove I80. Being so correlated, the elements I82, I88 and I89 inany adjusted position of the stud I86 will cooperate to start and endthe semi-revolution of the turrets at points coincident in the rearwardand return travel of the stitching head and to conclude one-half of thesemi-revolution of the turrets when the stitching head reverses itsdirection of movement. With the stud I86 adjusted in the one extremeposition shown in Fig. 24, the rocking motion of the driving element I88is just suflicient to complete the fixed angular movement of the drivenelement I89. With the stud I88 adjusted in any other position (Figs 3and'25), the driving element I88 has a lost motion with re-- 'spect tothe driven element I89, thus decreasing the time period for moving thedriven element I89 and, consequently, for turning the turrets throughtheir semi-revolution. It can now be understood that, by properadjustment of the stud I86, the 40 semi-revolution of the turrets can bemade to coincide with one-half of the complete revolution of the stud96, and more particularly with the second and third quarter-revolutionof said stud 96. The result is then that the stitches will radiate or 5diverge outwardly around the end portion of an eye to one side of thegreatest width thereof (Figs. 4, 5, 8 and 9). Furthermore, the stitchforming device in the present machine produces a uniform number ofstitches per time unit which is preferably such that the radiatingstitches do not crowd each other at the eyeless end of a buttonhole, 1.e., when the stud 96 is in axial alinement with the shaft 9| and theturrets are rotated at their greatest possible speed during the shortestpossible longitudinal travel of the stitching head as determined by thedesign of the cam grooves 41 and I80 in the main cam 45 and theadjustment of the stud I86 on lever I 82 in the one extreme end positionshown in Fig. 3. Obviously, it 80 is unnecessary to undertake anyspecial adjustment of the stud I0 on lever for an eyeless buttonhole, asit is immaterial how long it takes the stud 96 (Fig. 18) to revolve solong as the start and end of its revolution takes place somewhere 65 inthe rear portion II4b of the linear groove II4, i. e., out of theoperative region of the narrow portion I I4 of said groove II4.

The uniformly reciprocating needle 43 and cooperating loopers movearound, or circumscribe, a buttonhole of any shape at a speed which ispractically uniform, inasmuch as the transverse movement of the needleand cooperating loopers, superimposed upon their invariable longitudinalmovement during the formation of an eye of any shape and size, does notappreciably vary their motion around the eye from their motion along theparallel sides of the buttonhole. Hence, a stitch is formed at recurrentintervals of the substantially uniform movement of the needle 43 andcooperating loopers'around a buttonhole of any shape. All stitches of abuttonhole of any shape are, consequently, substantially uniformlyspaced and cannot crowd each other, except at the far end of an eyewhere the parallel stitches, though uniformly spaced at the edge of theeye, would nevertheless crowd each other were it not for the rotation ofthe turrets which causes angular displacement of the stitches at saidfar end of the eye so that they diverge around said eye end in radialfashion. In a buttonhole having no eye, the turrets are naturallyrotated at their greatest speed in order to radiate the stitches aroundthe end of the buttonhole during the shortest possible longitudinalmovement of the needle 43 and cooperating loopers, while the'speed ofrotation of the turrets for sewing around an eye of a given size isvaried with a view toward obtaining diverging stitches around said eyewhich approximate radial disposition thereon as nearly as possible.

After a completed operation of the machine, 1. e.,-upon the completionof the stitches b at the fly-bar end of the. buttonhole, cooperation inthe usual manner of the stitching control mechanism with the cam bar 50causes the operation of the 'stitch forming device to be stopped. Dur-Ing the remaining idle return movement of the stitching head into homeposition, i. e., during movement of the stud 96 in the forward portionII4d of the linear groove II4, the follower 63 rides in the other activeportion 62b of the cam groove 62, causing an idle revolution of the stud96, and the follower I8I rides in the other active portion I80!) of thecam groove I80, causing the turrets 53, 54 to rotate idly throughone-half revolution and position the stitch forming device for thesewing of the next button hole, whereupon the machine is stoppedautomatically by the main stop mechanism (not shown).

Figs. 10 and 10a illustrate, by way of example, the extent to which theguide block I09 and the cooperating stud 98 can be adjusted to obtaincertain maximum and minimum dimensions of a buttonhole. The invariableamplitude of the longitudinal reciprocation of the stitching head and,consequently, of the stud 96 is represented by the distance A betweenthe points S and R.

'By shifting the guide block into the position shown in Fig. 10 in whichthe cam elements I32 and I35 assume the illustrated full line position,a buttonhole of the maximum overall length B and of the maximum fly-barlength L (Fig. 10a) may be obtained. By shifting the guide block I09 tothe right as viewed in Fig. 10 so that the cam elements I32, I35 thereofassume the illustrated dot-and-dash positions I32 and I35, 2. buttonholeof a shorter overall length C is obtained. By aljusting the stud 96 inits most remote position 96' from the shaft 9I, an eye of the maximumwidth W is obtained. By adjusting the stud in its other extremeposition, i. e., in axial alinement with shaft 9|, no eye is formed.Also, by laterally adjusting the cam elements I32, I35 and'their-'c'ooperating elements I34 and I33, respectively, either no fly barobtained. The various adjustments of which the machine is capable willbe more fully described in the following paragraphs.

In order to increase the over-all length of the buttonhole, the guideblock I09 and cam bar 50 are shifted to the left as viewed in Figs. 2and 11, whereby the point of reversal of the reciprocation of the stud96 is moved farther away from the starting point of the stitchingoperation somewhere between the cam elements I32, I35 in the guide blockI09. The pointer 200 of the index plate being movable with said guideblock, cooperates with a graduated scale 20I on the bed 40 and gives theoperator an indication of the necessary amount of adjustment of saidguide block for a bottonhole of a given over-all length, Adjustment ofthe cam bar 50 with respect to the index plate 5| will locate thestarting point of the stitching opera tion at any desired point betweenthe cam elements I32 and I35 of the adjusted guide block I09. In orderto form a shorter fly bar, as shown in Fig. 6, the cam bar 50 is shiftedto the right as viewed in Figs. 2 and 11 relative to the index plate SIand guide block I09, thereby starting the operation of the stitchforming device somewhat later during the travel of the stud 95 in thelaterally offset guide groove IN on initial or rearward movement of thestitching head.

In order to form a wider fly bar, as also shown in Fig. 6, thecooperating elements I32, I34 and I33, I35 are shifted inthe earlierexplained manner relative to the linear groove II4. Consequently, therewill be less offsetting of the stitches b and b at the fly-bar end, andthe stitches b and b will be more or less spread out laterally andappear overlapping instead of completely superimposed as in Figs. 4 and8. While the adjustability of the cooperating elements I32, I35 and I33,I34 may thus be employed to vary the width of the fly bar, its chiefimportance is in permitting the exact superposition of the fly barstitches b, b, as is usually desirable, irrespective of their width. Inmachines of this type it is customary to provide means for varying theamplitude of the lateral jogging motion of the needle and, consequently,the width of the button hole stitches, or depth of bite, in order toadapt the machine to the sewing of button holes in different materials.When the depth of bite is changed, the amount of-lateral offsetting ofthe fly bar stitches must be correspondingly changed if they are to beexactly superimposed. In other words, it is usually desirable that thewidth of the fly bar be equal to the width of the stitches of which itis composed, and in the present machine this relationship can bepreserved, when the width of the stitches is changed by suitableadjustment of the cooperatlng elements I32, I34 and I33, I35 to changethe width of the fly bar correspondingly.

To form a button hole without a fly bar, as shown in Figs, 5, 7 and 9,the cooperating elements I32, I34 and I33, I35 are so adjusted as toform one groove which is in alinement with the narrow portion I14 of thelinear groove II4. Consequently, there will be no lateral offsetting ofthe stitches when the stitching operation commences while the stud 96travels somewhere between the opposite faces of said cooperatingelements I32 to I 35, inclusive. The same result can also beaccomplished by adjusting the cam bar 50 so far away from the guideblock I09 that the stitching operation will not be started until thestud 96 moves in the rearward portion II4b cf the linear groove II4. 'Ofcourse, the over-all aieaim length of a bar-less buttonhole isnecessarily smaller by the last mentioned kind of adjustment than by thefirst mentioned kind, and the choice of the kind of adjustment dependson the desired over-all length of the button hole, as can be readilyunderstood.

To form a longer eye, as shown in Fig. 8, the stud I is shifted in theslot 69 of lever 65 to the right as viewed in Fig. 3, thereby causingthe eccentric motion of the stud 96 to take place at lower speed and,consequently, during a longer period of the longitudinal motion of thestitching head. The result is that the offsetting oi the stitches d andd will start and end, respectively, at coincident points in the rearwardand return movement of the stitcl nng head 42 which are farther awayfrom the point of reversal of said stitching head. Correspondingadjustment of the stud I86 in theslot I84 of lever I82 will cause thestitches f to diverge around an end portion of the longer eye to oneside of the greatest width thereof in the manner shown in Fig. 8.

To form a wider eye, as shown in Fig. 9, the eccentricity of the stud 96relative to the shaft 9| is varied in the earlier explained manner,thereby causing a greater lateral offsetting oi the stitches d, d and).

To form an eye which is both longer and wider,

as shown in Fig. 5, all of the adjustments referred to in the twopreceding paragraphs are undertaken, as can bereadily understood.

To form a buttonhole without an eye, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, the stud95 is adjusted coaxially oi the shaft 9|, wherefore no lateraloifsetting of the stitches takes place while said stud is rotatedthrough one revolution in the rearward portion Illh of the linear grooveIII.

Adjustment of the stud I86 (Fig. 3) with each change of the length of aneye, so that the stitches diverge outwardly around an end portion of theeye to one side of the greatest width there oi, secures the furtheradvantage that all the stitches of a buttonhole, diverging and parallel,are substantially equally spaced and the diverging stitches around aneye of any shape and size appear to be disposed in substantially radialfashion, for reasons which have been earlier explained.

The disclosed machine, embodying the present invention in a preferredform, is a self-contained structure of rugged and durable constructionand does not require interchanging of any parts thereof in order toaccomplish the manifold results explained in the preceding description.The commercial value of the present machine is further enhanced in thatits adaptation to the sewing of a buttonhole of practically any desiredshape and size requires only a minimum number of simple adjustments.Thus; mere rotation of the casing 98 (Fig. 19) results in a difierentwidth of an eye or no eye, while mere adjustment of the stud ID on lever65 (Fig. 3) results in a different length of an eye. Mere adjustment ofthe stud I86 on lever I82 causes the stitches to diverge around an endportion of an eye of any length to one side of the greatest widththereof. -Mere rotation of the handle I56 (Figs. 2 and 13) results in adifferent width of a fiy bar or no fly bar, while mere adjustment of thecam bar 50 relative to the index plate SI- bed results in a differentover-all length of a buttonho1e.- Any one of these adjustments can beaccomplished quickly by an operator of ordinary skill.

I claim:

1. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitdl'h forming device; and mechanism forcausing relative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, saidmechanism including adjustable means for rotating the stitch-formingdevice during relative movement around an end portion of the buttonholebetween any two points thereof of predetermined coordination and withina certain range longitudinally of the longitudinal axis of thebuttonhole.

2. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said device's around a buttonhole having oneand variable between eyeless and an eye of variable length, saidmechanism including adjustable means for rotating the stitch-formingdevice during relative movement around said one end between any two.points thereof of predetermined coordination and with in a certain rangelongitudinally of the longitudinal axis of the buttonhole.

3. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, saidmechanism including adjustable means for rotating the stitch-formingdevice through an invariable angulardistance during relative movementaround an end portionof the buttonhole between any two points thereof ofpredetermined coordination and within a certain range longitudinally ofthe longitudinal axisoi the buttonhole.

4. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrela" tive movement between said devices around a buttonhole having oneend variable between eyeless and an eye of variable length, saidmechanism including adjustable means for rotating the stitch formingdevice through an invariable angular distance during relative movementaround said one end between any two points thereof of predeterminedcoordination and within a certain range longitudinally of thelongitudinal axis or the buttonhole.-

5. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable shape; and adjustable mechanism for rotating the stitchforming device at said eye at such speed that the di verging andparallel stitches of the buttonhole are substantially equally spacedregardless of the shape of the eye.

6. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchiormlng device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable size; and adjust-- able mechanism for rotating the stitchforming device at said eye at such speed that the diverging and parallelstitches of the buttonhole are substantially equally spaced regardlessof the size of the eye.

'7. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a butvice at said eye endat such speed that the di-- tonhole having an eye end of a widthvariable between zero and a certain maximum width; and adjustablemechanism for rotating the stitch forming device at said eye end at suchspeed that the diverging and parallel stitches of the buttonhole aresubstantially equally spaced regardless of the width of said eye end.

8. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeend of a length variable between zero and a certain maximum length; andadjustable mechanism for rotating the stitchforming device at said eyeend at such speed that the diverging andparallel stitches of thebuttonhole are substantially equally spaced regardless of the length ofsaid eye end.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchiorming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeend of a length and width variable between zero and a certain maximumlength and width, respectively; and adjustable mechanism for rotatingthe stitch forming delength and width of said eye end.

- 10. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforrning device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable length; and adjustable mechanism for rotating the stitchforming device at said eye at variable speed so that the number ofdiverging stitches varies substantially proportionally with the lengthof the eye.

11. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a'stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable width; and adjustable mechanism for rotating the stitchforming device at said eye at variable speed so that the number ofdiverging stitches varies substantially proportionally with the width ofthe eye.

12. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable length, the time period of the relative movement around theeye varying proportionally with the length thereof; and adjustablemechanism for rotating the stitch forming device at said eye during atime period varying proportionally with the length of the eye.

13. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable width, the time forming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable length and width, the time period of the relative movementaround the eye varying proportionally with its length only; andadjustable mechanism for rotating the stitch-forming device at said eyeduring a time period varying substantially proportionally with thelength and width of the eye.

15. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable length, the time period of the relative movement around theeye varyingproportionally with the length thereof; and adjustablemechanism for rotating the stitch forming device at said eye at a speedvarying substantially inversely proportionally with the length of theeye.

16. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a button hole having aneye of variable width, the time period of the relative movement aroundan eye of any width being invariable; and adjustable mechanism forrotating the stitch forming device at said eye at a speed varyingsubstantially inversely proportionally with the width of the eye.

1'7. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole having an eyeof variable length and width, the time period of the relative movementaround an eye of any length and width varying substantiallyproportionally with its length only; and adjustable mechanism forrotating the stitchforming device at said eye at a speed varyingsubstantially inversely proportionally with the length and width of theeye.

18. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising,

in combination, a work-holding device;' a stitchforming device; andmechanism for causing relative movement between said devices around abuttonhole, said mechanism including eccentrically driven means ofadjustable eccentric stroke for causing a component relative movement ofvariable amplitude between said devices transversely of the buttonhole,thereby obtaining an eye of variable width.

19. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, saidmechanism including eccentrically driven means of an eccentric strokevari-- able between zero and a certain maximum stroke for causing acomponent relative movement of variable amplitude between said devicestransversely of the buttonhole, thereby obtaining a buttonhole having noeye or an eye 01' variable width.

20. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one oi. saiddevices having a groove forming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices having a groove longitudinally of the buttonhole and saidmechanism including a stud of an eccentric stroke adjustable betweenzero and a certain maximum stroke, said stud projecting into said grooveand being immovable relative to the other device laterally of thebuttonhole and rotatable for the formation of no eye or an eye ofvariable width.

22. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said dvices around a buttonhole, saidmechanism including eccentrically driven means and an adjustable drivertherefor for causing a component relative movement between said devicestransversely of the buttonhole during a variable period of the relativemovement longitudinally of the buttonhole thereby obtaining an eye ofvariable length.

23. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitch- 'forming device; and mechanism forcausing rela tive movement between said devices around a buttonhole,said mechanism including eccen trically driven means of an adjustableeccentric stroke and an adjustable driver therefor for causing acomponent relative movement of variable amplitude between said devicestransversely of the buttonhole during a'variable period of the relativemovement longitudinally of the buttonhole, thereby obtaining an eye ofvariable width and length.

24. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, saidmechanism including eccentrica'lly driven means having an eccentricstroke variable between zero and a certain maximum stroke, and anadjustable driver therefor for causing a component relative movement ofvariable amplitude between said devices transversely of the buttonholeduring a variable period of the relative movement longitudinally of thebuttonhole, thereby obtaining no eye or an eye of variable width andlength.

- 25. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, saidmechanism including two single members cooperating to cause componentrelative movements between said devices transversely to the buttonholefor the formation of an eye and a fly bar, and said members beingalternately driving and driven members during the formation of said eyeand fly bar, respectively.

26. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a but-= tonhole, saidmechanism including two cooperating single members carried by saiddevices, respectively, and forming the sole driving connec tiontherebetween for causing component relative movements between saiddevices transversesaid pivot being floatable longitudinally of abuttonhole relative to at least one device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around the buttonhole, saidmechanism including two cooperating single members carried by saiddevices, respectively, for causing component relative movements 1therebetween transversely to the buttonhole for the formation of an eyeand a fly bar, said members also guiding the devices during theremaining relative movement and being alternately driving and drivenmembers during the formation of said eye and fly bar, respectively.

28. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination awork-holding device;'a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing longitudinally aligned grooves, one extendinglongitudinally of the buttonhole and the other having a laterally offsetportion and said mechanism including a cam immovable relative to theother device laterally of the buttonhole and rotatable in said onegroove for the formation of an eye .and relatively movable in said othergroove for the formation of a flybar.

29. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-hoidingdevice; a stitchformingdevice; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing agroove having a linear portion longitudinally of thebuttonhole merging into a laterally offset portion, and said mechanismincluding a cam carried by the other device and projecting into saidgroove,

said cam being rotatable in said linear portion for ally offset portionthereof, and said mechanism including a cam carried by the other device,said cam being rotatable in and relatively movable through a length ofsaid linear portion for the formation of an eye, and relatively movablethrough said oifset portion and the remaining length of said linearportion for forming a flybar, respectively for guiding said devicesduring the formation of the buttonhole length between the eye and flybar. 31. A-buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitch forming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing a groove having a linear portion longitudinally of thebuttonhole merging into a laterally adjustable portion, and saidmechanism including a cam immovable relative to the other devicelaterally of the buttonhole and projecting into said groove, said cambeing rotatable in said linear portion for the formation of an eye andrelatively movable in said adjustable portion for the formation of a iiybar of variable width.

32. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising,

v in combination, a work-holding device; a stitchforming device; andmechanism for causing relative movement between said devices around abuttonhole, one of said devices providing a groove having a linearportion longitudinally of the buttonhole merging into a laterally oifsetportion, and said mechanism including a stud of variable eccentricityimmovable relative to the other device laterally of the buttonhole andprojecting into said groove, said stud being rotatable in said linearportion for the formation of an eye of variable width, and relativelymovable in said ofiset portion for the formation of a fly bar.

33. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, aworlrholding device; a stitchiorming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing a groove having a linear portion longitudinally of thebuttonhole merging into a laterally adjustable portion, and saidmechanism including astud of variable eccentricity immovable relative tothe other device laterally of the buttonhole and projecting into saidgroove, said stud being rotatable in said linear portion for theformation or" an eye of variable width, and relatively movable in saidadjustable portion for the formation of a fly bar of variable width.

3i. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, aworlr-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrela tive movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing a groove having a linear portion iongitudinally oi thebuttonhole merging into a portion laterally adjustable between alinementwith said linear portion and a certain maidmum displacement therefrom,and said mechanism including a cam immovable relative to the otherdevice laterally of the buttonhole and projecting into said groove, saidcam being rotatable in said linear portion for the for mation of an eye,and relatively movable in said adjustable portion for the formation ofno fly bar or a fly bar of variable width.

35. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing a groove having a linear portion longitudinally ofthe'buttonhole merging into a laterally ofiset portion, and saidmechanism including a rotatable stud adjustable between coaxialalinement with its axis of rotation and a certain maximum eccentricstroke and immovable relative to the other device laterally of thebuttonhole, said stud being rotatable in said linear portion for theformation tively movable in said offset portion for the formation of afly bar.

36. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing a groove having a linear portion longitudinally of thebuttonhole merging into a portion laterally adjustable between alinementwith said linear portion and a certain maximum displacement therefrom,and said mechanism including a rotatable stud adjustable between coaxialalinement with its axis of rotation and a certain maximum eccentricstroke and immovable relative to the other device laterally of thebuttonhole, said stud being rotatable in said linear portion for theformation of no eye or an eye of variable width, and relatively movablein said adjustable portion for the arcane formation of no width.

37. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing a groove having a linear portion longitudinally of thebuttonhole merging into a laterally offset portion, and said mechanismincluding a cam immovable relative to the other device laterally-oi thebuttonhole and projecting into said groove, and adjustable driving meansfor rotating the cam in said linear portion during a variable period ofthe relative movement longitudinally of the buttonhole for forming aneye of variable length, said cam being also relatively movable in saidoffset portion for the formation of a fly bar.

38. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a. stitchforming device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing a groove having a linear portion longitudinally of thebuttonhole merging into a laterally offset portion, and said mechanismincluding a stud of variable eccentricity immovable relative to theother device laterally of the buttonhole and projecting into saidgroove, and adjustable driving means for rotating said stud in saidlinear portion during a variable period of the relative movementlongitudinally of the buttonhole for forming an eye of variable widthand length, said stud being also relatively movable in said ofl'setportion for the formation of a fly bar.

39. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforrning device; and mechanism for causingrelative movement between said devices around a buttonhole, one of saiddevices providing a groove having a linear portion longitudinally of thebuttonhole merging into a laterally adjustable portion, and saidmechanism including a stud of variable eccentricity immovable relativeto the other device laterally of the buttonhole and projecting into saidgroove, and adjustable driving fiy bar or a fly bar of variable meansfor rotating said stud in said linear portion during a variable periodof the relative movement longitudinally of the buttonhole for forming aneye of variable width and length, said stud being also relativelymovable in said oflset portion for the formation of a fly bar ofvariable width.

40. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising, in combination, awork-holding device; a stitchforming device;'a pivot connecting saiddevices, said pivot being floatable longitudinally of a buttonholerelative to at least one device; mechanism for causing relativereciprocation of invariable amplitude between said deviceslongitudinally of the buttonhole; other mechanism for causing relativerocking motions between said devices, said other mechanism including anelement carried by one device adjustable in a direction longitudinallyof the buttonhole and providing a groove extending in the samedirection, and an eccentric carried by the other device and projectinginto said groove to guide the devices during said relativereciprocation, and being rotatable in said groove for the formation ofan eye; and an adjustable mechanism for starting and stopping theoperation of the stitch-forming device at any location of the eccentricWithin a certain range in the groove, thus obtaining a buttonhole ofvariable overall length and having an eye.

41. A buttonhole sewing machine comprising,

